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| Walking out of Sarara Camp |
Earlier this week, after a dozen changes of plans and a slightly fraught palming-off of children onto extremely kind friends, my husband and I went away for two nights, to Northern Kenya. This was a busman's holiday for me since the deal is that I now write an in depth piece on the highly swanky and upmarket Sarara Camp for a travel mag. This was only my second travel assignment but you will see why it was worth moving heaven and earth to get there. The place was magical - I would go back again in a heartbeat if funds were ever permitting.
There are only six tents and though the camp is run by experienced white Kenyan safari guides who bring in the dollars and make sure everything is up to standard, it's actually owned by the local community of Samburu people. The deal in this case is quite unique, a beneficial partnership whereby 60% of the camp's profits are given to and managed by the Samburu community, then subsequently spent on community development, healthcare, education bursaries, water etc - while the remaining 40% covers running costs, salaries, vehicles, radios etc, ie the infrastructure of the camp itself. So by visiting you are sort of making a charity donation to the Samburu people whose precarious existence has often in the past been threatened by poachers, invaders and serious drought.
You also might like to know (I love this sort of thing); Sarara was the jumping off point for Wills and Kate on their 'proposal' safari in Kenya (apparently it's true Wills wasn't letting go of that rucksack!) - and Ashton Kutcher and Demi Moore were staying recently. On a more down to earth level - We were greeted by a tame 2 week old Kudu, went walking with Samburu guides into the hills, did night game drives and spotted leopard, visited a Samburu village, swam in a fresh water pool and ate like kings - so you get the picture. Exclusive, luxury, active and heavenly.
Being waited on at mealtimes by Samburu warriors in full regalia was a unique experience, as were bush sundowners by a camp fire in the floor of a dry riverbed, overlooked (to our surprise) by a malevolent hyena. We saw and tracked leopard really quite close up on 3 occasions which was fantastic for me since after 12 years of living in the E Africa region, I've only ever glimpsed one, maybe two in the wild before and always in the very far distance.
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| Leopard, looking at me, looking at you |
Plus the scenery over the remote and unspoiled Mathews range was breathtaking. Huge tents, hot showers, flushing loos, not another vehicle or tourist in sight.
However, as a travel writer (ha ha ha!) I realise that the occupation has it's ups and downs. I sometimes wonder if it wouldn't be more fun to visit 'incognito', then have the freedom report back at will - however this is unrealistic. I am not complaining - honestly I'm not - but visiting places gratis as a writer has its pitfalls.
1. You can't plan the trip to suit your own timetable. They crop up suddenly and it's necessary to be able to drop everything and go, or else miss out.
2. You get the creeping suspicion that fellow guests might be slightly resentful of your presence (bless them) because after all - they are paying and you are not. Feeling like a freeloader is not the best and however you sugar coat it, that is what you are.
3. You might be in heaven but you're there to work. When all you want to do is kick back and relax, you are frantically reading in-camp info and taking notes, hoping to memorize a lot of stuff too.
4. The person who commissions the piece 'owns' you for the duration of your stay. They want to 'chat' often, show you everything, then make sure you talk to absolutely everyone who has a stake in the place.
On one occasion, the camp manager actually said 'oh good, you've got a notebook with you this time' in rather a meaningful way. I must admit, I bristled.
5. You have to have the confidence & bravado to sell yourself, be self assured, brag about what a marvellous, experienced writer you are and how you are going to write a fantastic piece. (Am really not good at that sort of thing, hate it).
6. Your travelling partner (if you are lucky enough to have one) is required to take a back seat and share your time with the lodge/camp in question. Put it this way, my husband sweetly packed a bottle of champagne on this trip since it was the first time we'd gone away without the kids for 2 years - we didn't open it.
The up-side.
1. You don't have to pay and you may well be staying somewhere out of your normal price bracket.
2. You get to do and see amazing things that, let's face it, you probably wouldn't normally make time for.
3. You get well looked after when you are there, often recieve the personal attention of the camp owner/manager.
4. The travel magazine does the hard work of finding a place for you to go. Don't know about you guys but, even in this digital age, I find that unless a destination has been personally recommended then I am at a total loss.
A case in point, we considered going to Egypt briefly at Easter time, then gave up because we didn't really know where to start organising the sort of holiday we wanted.
3. You can tell everyone about new, fab places to visit (do look at the Sarara website if you dare).
The previous assignment I had was a trip to Mike's Camp in Kiwayu. With only six or so beach huts on a remote island north of Lamu and visitors such as Colin Firth, it was equally luxurious and fabulous again as Sarara, with a quirky style of its own, charasmatic host, certainly a place that you could write home about to make everyone (ie on Facebook) green with envy.
So, as things stand, if you fell into some cash or won the lottery, would like 5 star personal treatment and don't mind flying in small aircraft around the country, I would happily recommend these two lodges/camps as the perfect remote Beach and Bush combination in Kenya for adventurous souls.
The best bit? Neither place had a phone signal for my Airtel phone (although they did have Safaricom coverage), so no one from home was able to report back with dramas related to the kids, the pets or the house. I was blissfully out of contact. Think I'll stick with Airtel for that reason if nothing else! It's rare these days to find anyone ever switching off. Even though I was 'on duty' at the time, I have fab memories of both trips and feel very lucky to have visited. Oh how the other half live!
To read more on how to become a travel writer, click here for tips from Wanderlust
What an interesting post. My significant other and I were actually thinking about going to either Sasaab or Sarara for our anniversary next year. We have heard great things about the two and can't quite figure out which one to choose. The rates are pretty high, but then it is once-in-a-very-long-time (if not a lifetime) experience. Isn't it? Keep up the good work.
ReplyDeleteHi there - funnily enough we've been lucky to have stayed at both Sarara and Sasaab. Both were absolutely fabulous and really quite similar. I think that Sarara just pipped it for me, if only because of the plentiful leopard..
ReplyDeleteHow is it charity? It's the exact opposite of charity.
ReplyDeleteThese are people that own a business and receive dividends - they are stakeholders not the destitute.
Okay, I conceed, not charity - but the set up was only made possible through the highly charitable gesture of the former owner of the camp, who gave the lodge to the indigenous community in a unique and selfless gesture. To pass on 60% of profits to the local community is pretty remarkable.
ReplyDeleteGreat post,
ReplyDeleteHow do Sarara and Sasaab compare to Shompole?
I have been planning a trip to Shompole for a big occasion but might be swayed to any of these two if they are better.
I agree with Baboonbutt... but then again Africa Expat doesn't really admit she made a mistake...(she must still insist that the former owner of the camp gave the lodge to "indigenous" commmunity!!!!) Indegenous???? I am Akamba what does that make me??? Indigenous?? We are all Kenyan...we don't have indigenous community...like in Australia oe the USA where they segregate the Aborigines and American Indians calling them "Indigenous"....I kndly request you to stop writing about Kenya if you do not know the details...In another blog you said that your driver was offended because you called him Wambui instead of Wambua...then you went on to explain that Wambui is the female version of Wambua!!!! That is rediculous!!! Wambui is a Kikuyu female name and Wambua (meaning born during the rains) is an Akamba male name those names are from 2 separate Tribes. ...Now you insult us again by saying that when one spens money at the lodge they are giving charity.... how degrading is that to our Kenyan people.... Please be careful not to offend your guests.... We are good people and take pride in our country and culture ...so we are hospitable but not beggars!!!! Respect us...!!! Thank you!!!!
ReplyDeleteQuestion is ? How does a European descent couple or a White couple claim to own something on Samburu soil then "give it back as a highly charitable gesture" to the Samburu? Why don't you say the white persons patnered with the Samburu for a cut of 40%....?Or is it beneath white persons like you to acknowledge that Africa is amazing and belongs to Africans not otherwise. I wonder if there is a Kenyan who would take a Palace in England and then give it back as a "gesture of Charity" to the Queen and her subjects?
ReplyDeleteYours is a case of Foot-in-mouth ...Mrs Africa Expat Wife.
D.Menga Nairobi
Okay, to all the aggrieved commenters - I think we are missing the point here.
ReplyDeleteThe land is owned by the community, no one disputes this. An organisation comes in, builds a high quality lodge/tented camp, in such a way that is sympathetic to the surroundings, with all the infrastructure that goes with it (solar power, running water etc), at great expense - then donates it all all to the community (Can you see an Kenyan MP doing something like this?!).
The organisation continues to run and manage the camp (they are white Kenyans born and bred), bringing in foreign tourists paying top dollar for the experience - at the kind of level of service that they expect, then the manager gives 60% of any profits made to the local community. The remaining 40% is used for salaries (many of the employees are from the local samburu communities as well) and running costs of the camp and security/rangers etc.
I fail to see where this article gets so patronising? I think it's a good tourism model for the time being. If the Samburu had the wherewithall to build a camp, attract high end, foreign tourists, build a website and do all the marketing necessary etc. plus provide security for the area and generate the same amount of cash for their community, then hats off to them - but at this point in time, let's accept that that was never going to happen.
The Samburu in that area are sadly at the mercy of a very harsh climate, regular drought, a dodgy security situation - often threatened by armed poachers, Somali invaders etc. Now they have healthcare, security and an income steam for school bursaries etc. An additional plus is that the various communities are also working together in a mutually beneficial relationship whereas before there were regular disputes between rival clans.
Sorry but there is a charitable side to this project. I'm sorry that you fail to see it.
p.s. since when did indigenous become an offensive word?! Oh dear. The indigenous community in the Northern territories are the Samburu - they are from there and have lived there all their lives. There I've said it, you can slap my wrists now!! OOo er Mrs!!!
Okay, to all the aggrieved commenters - I think we are missing the point here.
ReplyDeleteThe land is owned by the community, no one disputes this. An organisation comes in, builds a high quality lodge/tented camp, in such a way that is sympathetic to the surroundings, with all the infrastructure that goes with it (solar power, running water etc), at great expense - then donates it all all to the community (Can you see an Kenyan MP doing something like this?!).
The organisation continues to run and manage the camp (they are white Kenyans born and bred), bringing in foreign tourists paying top dollar for the experience - at the kind of level of service that they expect, then the manager gives 60% of any profits made to the local community. The remaining 40% is used for salaries (many of the employees are from the local samburu communities as well) and running costs of the camp and security/rangers etc.
I fail to see where this article gets so patronising? I think it's a good tourism model for the time being. If the Samburu had the wherewithall to build a camp, attract high end, foreign tourists, build a website and do all the marketing necessary etc. plus provide security for the area and generate the same amount of cash for their community, then hats off to them - but at this point in time, let's accept that that was never going to happen.
The Samburu in that area are sadly at the mercy of a very harsh climate, regular drought, a dodgy security situation - often threatened by armed poachers, Somali invaders etc. Now they have healthcare, security and an income steam for school bursaries etc. An additional plus is that the various communities are also working together in a mutually beneficial relationship whereas before there were regular disputes between rival clans.
Sorry but there is a charitable side to this project. I'm sorry that you fail to see it.
p.s. since when did indigenous become an offensive word?! Oh dear. The indigenous community in the Northern territories are the Samburu - they are from there and have lived there all their lives. There I've said it, you can slap my wrists now!! OOo er Mrs!!!
It is a shame that certain people feel offended by this particular article. I thought it was objective, reported from an outsider's point of view. To the "Akamba" anonymous, I too am a Kamba, and the word indigenous is not offensive - I am indigenous to eastern Kenya (ukambani), as you are. Look up the word. While the lodge is not charity, the owner(s) did a favor to the local community by providing direct investment and agreeing to partner with the community to run the lodge. He could easily take that money to Botswana or South Africa or Tanzania. Instead he provides employment for a few Samburu youths who would probably be sporting AK 47s and raiding the Pokots for Cattle. And the profits flow right back into the community and not into the pockets of some rich shareholder in Europe. Not to mention the fact that it is a "green" lodge. You can't keep blaming the white person for every perceived unfairness, we need direct foreign investment in this country - we have way too many unemployed young people. I don't care if it is charity or not, I don't care if it is owned by the Chinese,the Russians or whoever as long as a Samburu family gets food on the table. If it offends you that foreigners do invest in our country, move to Somalia. To the African Expat Wife - Keep blogging. I think you are objective, fair and little bit partial to our way of life. Wewe ni wetu.
ReplyDeleteto the author: "which MP has done that" ....im Swiss and lived in Kenya and i do know many MPs. Somehow i do have contacts to the locals unlike you who only has contacts to the housestaff. its a shame that you lived so long in Kenya and you are still not integrated.
ReplyDeleteHow bizarre!Mrs Africa Expat,you should read my comment again.I did indeed write it in your very own language, thus it should be easy for you to comprehend.I used polite language and I did point out your errors.
ReplyDeleteYou ask if I see a Kenyan MP doing such a charitable thing as this?
I will tell you here.YES!!! and more!! You ought to be ashamed. My grandfather sacrificed & fought hard for this country,was jailed and yes he was indeed one of the first MP's and Ministers of this beloved country of ours . Kenyans take offense when you try to LABEL us as this or that,we are all equal..simple as that.If you read my comment you will see that I said WE ARE ALL KENYANS.You still insist that it is CHARITY when tourists spend money at Sarara!!! It is indeed sad,that you continue to view Kenya's wild life ,natural resources and our people as such.I say the Samburu own the land,the couple are patners with the Samburu so they have a business understanding.You continue to degrade us and you do not apologize for your errors..Is it fair this thing that you do? Also ,I am an educated and cultured person so I will not comment to the so called "Mr Musyoka wa Maundu" ."Wewe ni wetu" slogans & uncivilized comments are beneath me you should know better Mrs African Expat wife!! There is no Maundu and you know it! Kenyans are not beggars and I would like to remind you that "our MPs charitable or not are really none of your business" I beleive your statement about MPs was crass,derogatory and uncalled for..had you made such comments about our people in England where it is so politically correct you would have had some explaining to do ..please be good to your guests !! Apologize when you cross the line ,It is indeed the "bigger" thing to do... Samburu,Mzungu,Akamba whatever we are all Kenyan...try to understand that!
im wondering why you never post ALL comments. it seems you can not handle critics very well.
ReplyDeleteTo Anon, sorry this post has caused you so much upset. I too found your anonymous comments upsetting & am getting tired of giving the debate so much airtime.
ReplyDeletePlease remember that there is no compulsion for you to read expatwivesclub if you dont like it.
Which Anonymous are u refering to? I only wrote one comment and one response!! You are indeed correct that it is not compulsory that we read your posts but it is most URGENT for you to realize that Kenyans are proud of thier heritage and thier country and you should RESPECT us as a people most especially when you are here !!Period..!! So many other foreigners write about Kenya but they are not patronising...Very odd this need to make Kenyans inferior could it be from the fact that you are insecure about your lack of breeding and absolutely crass background? My comment has been very polite.You still are not apologetic about your errors..You are absolutely hilarious ,you want Kenyans to accept that your patronising posts are OK for us? What is so upsetting about a Kenyan telling you to respect our people and our country? Is it so tiring to RESPECT our people?
ReplyDeleteSorry to keep pushing it, but if, as you imply, the original owners of the lodge keep 40% of the profits then it is in no way charitable and is a joint venture. It's like saying a bank or venture capitalist is 'charitable' because they fund a project.
ReplyDeleteAs a (mzungu) Kenyan I find it extremely irritating when people label anything that has mutual benefit between a richer and poorer person as charity just because the poorer person is indigenous.
If a rich mzungu/indian friend did the same with a mzungu/indian acquaintance of theirs no one would call it charity. It's like when you say that 'there were Kenyans, whites and asians in attendance' (I paraphrased), it's bloody annoying. We're all Kenyans regardless of race. There would be no tolerance for that kind of thing in the west, no reason why there should be here. It's ok to say 'black' y'know.
Anon, regardless of what your grandfather did to serve the country easily 90% of today's MPs here are basically white collar thieves and as a resident of Kenya and (I assume) taxpayer here our idiotic MPs (that refuse to pay tax and want a million plus a month in salary) are very much her business.
D Menga
ReplyDeleteEveryone on the planet is an immigrant. White people can own land in Samburu territory just as Black people can own land in Europe. Let's cut the racial bullshit shall we.
Thanks for all your comments. Much appreciated.
ReplyDeleteYes, I tend to agree with the above, I hate it when people are playing the charity card for marketing purpose.
ReplyDeleteI think using the term "charity donation" was indeed wrong...
Anyway, at 700 USD a night per person, don't think I will ever step in Sara Camp in my life and that's very bad and personally that targeting upper-class tourists is a bad move to promote the Trust.
Wondering if Kate wore her maasai belt for charity ? Or if the workshop in TZ is a charity workshop ?
To my Kenyan fellows, don't get too much angry... Charity is a well-known mzungu credo in expat housewifes vocabulary: "Oh, you know if I employ staff at my home, it's only for charity"
:)
Been a while going through your blog but now I am reconnected:-)
ReplyDeleteMy comments on a rather different tangent: I am a full time travel writer and you have made my day with the ups and not-so-ups of the job...spot on!