As two nice men packed my supermarket bags this morning, I got to thinking – what are the day-to-day shopping things in Nairobi that you would not experience in UK? I then decided to think of ten differences – which can also serve as top ten tips for anybody new to the experience.
1. Shopping is always packed for you either into plastic bags or old boxes. An added service is to have the shopping carried to your car. This is done willingly but tipping is a good idea (30/- to even 50/- inflation has been horrendous lately!).
On annual trips home I find myself gazing into the middle distance in supermarket check outs, then wake-up, surprised that I must knuckle down and do the packing myself, then get a bit flustered by the chip and pin machine and never know which way to put in my card. It’s all a bit pathetic really.
2. Which leads me onto my next point. Don’t expect you credit/debit card to always work in East Africa. Often the card won’t run at the supermarket or in cash machines due to regular comms (communication) failures. I used to get in a panic and think that a card not running through straight away meant ‘insufficient funds’ but am a lot more laid back now. For anyone feeling desperate, it is always worth trying a different ATM. I know that Barclays usually works for UK visitors if all else fails. The cash machines can also be out of service due to the same comms reason. Cheques can be used in shops where the owners agree, just write your contact phone numbers on the back.
Please note; if shopping in a hurry, do pay with cash because using a card could delay you at least ten minutes! Alternatively, I have had the same amount debited four times consecutively at one petrol station when they struggled with the machine.
In fact, if you can help it, don’t ever be in a hurry around here. It’s not worth the stress, plus you will look like a foolish fish out of water! Haraka, haraka heina baraka.
3. Friendly service is common, chatting over a shop counter usual, smiling – always. There is always time spared to strike up a conversation and share a chuckle at the shops especially with shop staff. Shopping can be fun with lots of human contact.
4. At ATM machines there is a uniformed guard who kindly moonlights as a cash machine technician. For those people who are unused to cash machines, new to bank accounts etc, askari’s will insert your card for you and even punch in your number if you wish. This is not as silly as it sounds. ATMs here are used to transfer money to mobile phones and even pay bills. It is very complicated. Again – fabulous additional service if there is anything you don't understand!
5. In East Africa, there is no shame in staring. This is less common in busy capitals like Nairobi but do prepare to be overtly stared at from time to time and take it in good humour. Stare back if you like! This is a world away from the unfriendly streets of London, or UK tube and train etiquette where any eye contact at all is highly unusual and sometimes even considered dangerous.
6. Don’t expect to get everything that is on your list when you go shopping. I hate lists, so it’s not really a problem for me – but you’ll find shop stocks vary wildly according to supply (sometimes ‘supply’ means waiting for a container to clear in Mombasa). Don’t plan for a dinner/lunch party before shopping – see what looks nice and what is available first. If you see something you love, treat it like gold dust and sweep up as much as you can as it may be six months before you see that Colmans yellow mustard, special nappies or Brownie mix again. I don’t joke! Haven’t been able to get porridge oats or even sugar in Nakumatt for ages!
7. Managing hawkers. The best advice I ever had was to simply say, ‘no thank you’ rather than get upset by persistent hawkers waving pirate cds, knife sets, nuts and bags of fruit or flowers in my face. In Tanzania I was told to say ‘Sitaki asante (no thank you)’ but was since told by a hawker in Kenya to add, ‘labda kesho (maybe tomorrow)’ which he said made him feel much better. At the same time, don’t feel compelled to buy anything you don't want and be aware of hawkers charging higher prices. Showing even the vaguest interest in the item for sale can be fatal, as the hawkers’ persuasive skills are legendary.
N.b. In Tanzania, hawkers hiss loudly at you – there is no offence meant by this gesture, so don’t take any. They also call out ‘hey sister!’ which is still considered polite, so don’t get upset – at least they are not saying ‘hey mother!’
8. School children holding up sponsorship forms is one challenge that I have yet to fathom. I often give a little money but have no idea if this is a good idea. (Readers’ advice welcome!) There are always food donation boxes in supermarkets, so regularly buying an extra bag of flour, rice or sugar may be a better idea than handing out cash to strangers.
9. The same goes for hawkers holding up live baby rabbits or puppies on road verges. We had tears from my 6 year old daughter for the whole journey home last Sunday, because I wouldn’t let her borrow my money to buy a baby rabbit. (She intended to pay me back from her piggy bank). I did hear of one brave lady who, in Mombasa, pretended she was interested in buying tropical birds, then just before handing over the money, released them all into the air. I think she is still alive to tell the tale.
10. In petrol stations, fuel will be put into your car for you. Just state how much you want put in in terms of money (ie. 1,000 shillings please) or say ‘fill her up’ ‘jaza tafhadali!’ If paying by card, don’t worry about the man disappearing off to take your card off into his office. He will reappear eventually – but as warned above, it might be worth checking that the card machine is working before starting the process as you don't want to find yourself in a fix.
11. This is a bonus tip for shoppers – everything can be fixed, kettles, shoes, chainsaws, cd players, dvd machines, it’s incredible. You will always find somebody very clever to put things back together in little electronic shops, or just ask a hawker to point you in the right direction to find the right fundi.
The ‘disposable’ culture is alien here so don’t throw things away – do recycle – you will never have a problem finding homes for things as long as you are giving them away for nothing! In additin, I wash out cooking oil, milk containers, tin cans, then put them in a separate plastic bag on rubbish collection day which saves the people who are always collecting these items on the road, from getting too dirty when sifting through the bins. My trip to visit a school in Kibera enlightened me on this one.
The ‘labda kesho' remark is the funniest thing i have read in some time.
ReplyDeleteI used to use the "labda kesho" comment for really persistant hawkers until I learnt that you definitely shouldn't say it to hawkers you are likely to see kesho and the next day and the next day, like ones on your street corner. Hawker's never forget and never give up!
ReplyDeleteLove the shopping tips, they are very true for tanzania too.
I love this post!! IN fact, these are the things that probably seem so everyday to you now- but at first (maybe even still, occasionally) caused culture shock. This is really a nice post. You should take posts like this and write a book on culture adjustment in Kenya!
ReplyDeleteAbout the staring- this happens in India too. Then when I moved back to US it continued. I love to wear saris and salvaar kamiz here. As a white woman, when I pass an Indian in the supermarket, or in big cities on the street wearing this dress, even with my husband, I can tell if the Indian staring at me was born here or not. Usually Indians born here do not stare. But about 5 years ago, I got sick of people staring at me, so I began to stare back at them. Sometimes when I stare back at an Indian staring at me, one of two things happen, they either begin to look confused because usually whites don't stare back, and they stop. Or, we continue to stare at each other and warm into smiles as we pass by. This happens in US as well as in India as we go on a yearly basis. Thanks for sharing and bringing this memory back to me.
Great advice! This brings back so many fond memories of my time in Kenya and shopping, which I personally loved because it was always an adventure. So different than in the US...
ReplyDeleteHow easy is it to find luxuries like lobster, fine wines, good cheeses, pate and a good range of flavoured condoms in Nairobi?
ReplyDeleteLove your posts; always a mine of super, helpful information.
I disagree about automated machine checkouts at grocery stores being pathetic. They are easy to use ( at least here in the States) and saves me time when I don't want to queue. We also have baggers here and one can chose to have the service of a cashier and bagger and they pack them into your cart for you, or you can choose to use the machine...
ReplyDeleteThey also ask one if you prefer paper, plastic or re-usable bags.
We also recyle and on trash days sort out paper, plastcic , glass etc, and all different recyling containers provided by the town you live in.
I grew up in Kenya until my early twenties and now live in the States. Maybe UK is doom and gloom as you always make it sound to be but I appreciate both cultures both in Kenya and in the States.
Sometimes I think expats like you come to our country and take advantage of the citizens and just like someone else had commented on another blog that you should appreciate the country you are in and don't look down on the locals.
You should be grateful that you get to have the kind of life you have in Kenya at the expense of the locals because you know in the Uk you might not have all the luxuries you have.
But hey, keep blogging and don't abuse the hand that feeds you. ( interpreted, don't scorn Kenya and it's people, )
All so true and familiar. Coming back to the UK is a shock - why, I have to fill the car with petrol myself!
ReplyDeleteyeah, the only thing is if you regularly shop in the same area, 'kesho' does eventually arrive and then you really do have to give them something. I've always liked the idea of giving food rather than money - e.g. bread/fruit
ReplyDeleteexpat wife, is your swa as good as this...
ReplyDeletehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KdVANthV7ss
Thanks for the flurry of comments. I love it when that happens!
ReplyDeleteTony, that youtube clip of course was me! - a little interview I did for KTN whilst on holiday at the coast...... just kidding!
"Sometimes I think expats like you come to our country and take advantage of the citizens and just like someone else had commented on another blog that you should appreciate the country you are in and don't look down on the locals.
ReplyDeleteYou should be grateful that you get to have the kind of life you have in Kenya at the expense of the locals because you know in the Uk you might not have all the luxuries you have"
Hey buddy, as a fellow Kenyan, I am appalled by your comments above. Whatever gave you the impression that the blogger feels the way you allege? Or is this another - daily - example of my fellow Kenyans who read English upside down/have warped minds? And as someone who has migrated abroad, I'd hope you'd have a better grip on the world and how it works.
Any reasonable reading of this or her other posts shows - quite obviously - the sensitivity with which she deals with all our cock-ups and self-inflicted wounds.
Why is it always "anonymous" writing nasty comments? :-)
ReplyDeleteThat person obviously misread and misses the point. Thanks for the helpful posts!
Angela
This brings back a lot of memories and as one of the posts mentioned there is a huge cultural difference in the small things...its what we don't realize till we actually live and experience the country. My move from Tanzania to UK highlighted those and recently while working in Kenya its those little things that made it so special. And coming back to the UK you definitely notice that in the rat race we live in it is those small things that we call cultural differences actually make it easier to get thru our dailiy activities.
ReplyDeleteHi. I have always enjoyed your blog (as a Kenyan native who has also lived in the UK( ! AND A HALF YEARS-studies) and US(2 YEARS-family;WIFE STUDYING) and now live and work in Nbi most of my life). It gives me a a fresh look to things i consider commonplace in my country. A couple of factual errors in the blog that I feel I need to correct(+ve and -ve)
ReplyDelete1.Tipping for baggage is optional but is alwasys a nice thing to do. As a mzungu, this gets more expensive. I tip 20bob
3. Credit/debt card not working is 100% true. 10 years ago when they were using the dos system and Mt longonot earth station for sat link I use to carry cash and card. For the last 8 years or so, I have never had to do this.mostly if it does not work at the till, it always works at customer care.Its even better now with fibre optic links. It mostly takes max 2 minutes to process
5. Staring is rampart everywhere where people are not used to strangers..Asia is probably the worst where you are stared at in close quarters in overpacked trains..Mostly Mzungu curiosity
6. Strange about shopping lists.I would imagine you live in karen and honestly you will get most things in nakumatt. Obviously noone will stock stuff you get in your village town Coop because they will not move..just like I had to go to Shepards Bush to get flour for ugali.Oats and sugar are all over. Try Charandana supermarkets for more imported stuff..better still, the UN canteen if you ave friends who live there
8. Sponsoring kids for charity walks used to be in vogue a while ago and was a good cause. now its been so abused you had better give money to the school/cause directly if you have to.
9. When buying petrol its better to use cash. Their machines take ages and when you say jaza..WATCH that the machine starts at ZERO. Some guys will fill you up with the machine already at 500..dd not adjust after last customer fill-up an d pocket the balance
11. I had to learn how to fix stuff in the US after I realized there was no cheap labour available
b. I stocked old newspapers and bottles in the UK thinking i would sell them for money like I do here. It was pretty funny when i saw people trashing old video machines
Now that I have got this off my chest, I feel better. keep on writing..
My poor friend went back to kenya after living in britain for 6 years and went over to a service station, got off his car, and took the hose to fuel his car.
ReplyDeleteyou can imagine all the askari's and the workers fromt he station office runing to him with the intention of stopping this "fuel thief".
I was just imagining if the opposite happened and you drove to the filling bay in the UK and waited there for someone to come and "jaza", angry motorists behind you and all.
gotta love cultrural differences.