I never thought it would be easy.
My plan was to suggest to the employees in our house that they open a bank account, then I could pay their salaries directly to each individual. It's also time for a pay rise, so I would welcome not having to make covert trips to the bank to withdraw fistfuls of 1,000 shilling notes.
In spite of my initial fears, on making preliminary enquiries, I was pleasantly surprised.
'Oh, Equity, I have one of those accounts, no problem.' One said.
Another, 'I opened an account some time ago, I just need to go to Westlands to collect the card.'
'I have a Postbank account, will that do?'
This is what normally happens. I throw out what I think might be a complex task for others to complete, then find it immediately flips back onto me to make the next move. Hang on a minute, I thought, just how do I get these salaries paid into these various accounts when from month-to-month, depending on personal loans taken for trips home/funerals etc, the amount I pay out is always different.
One lady (the one who used to keep cash in her room on our plot - that is, until recently when it got stolen by the night watchman) had to go off work early to visit Postbank (banking hours 9am to 4pm) where she found she does indeed have an account, though they do charge an annual fee of around 450 shillings. This was fine.
The second lady wanted a lift to Westlands so that she could pick up her Equity card. I thought I'd swing by on a round trip via school this afternoon but I tell you, today the traffic was terrible! On arrival at the Westlands Branch, she was unsurprisingly informed that her card (which apparently had been waiting for her since last August) had been sent back to the hidden depths that is HQ. As far as I understand it, she now has to apply for a new card.
It seems that launching ourselves into the 21st (even 20th!) century here in Nairobi is, like everything, going to take time and patience. I think I might just risk it and do cash again this month.....
The diary of a British expat living in Kenya. News, views, debate and a healthy dose of trivia.
Tuesday, March 29, 2011
Wednesday, March 23, 2011
Water water everywhere but not a drop to drink....
At the weekend, whilst looking at our swimming pool that was positively brimming over as a result of heavy rainfall, we had a bright idea. Since the City Council had not sent water to us for two weeks and all the house tanks were empty, we thought; why not siphon some excess water from the pool?
There are various methods of getting your hands on water in Nairobi but none of them are particularly cheap or easy. For Nairobi householders, the fact that water is a precious resource is brought into sharp focus on an almost daily basis.
Boreholes
1. Some apartment blocks or town house complexes draw water from boreholes that the owner/developer has had dug themselves. Digging a borehole costs a lot (a few million shillings) and nowadays you have to go very deep to ensure that the water table does not fall below the depth of your borehole in the long dry season. Our neighbour sunk a borehole just before building six houses in his garden. The noise of the machinery digging through layers of earth and rock was deafening. As a result of so many boreholes being dug, the water table in our area is slowly dropping.
There are also rumours that borehole water is very high in fluoride which can play havoc with young teeth.
Bowsers
2. Other householders with no direct access to running water might buy a 10 thousand litre truck load of water on a more or less on a bi-weekly basis, depending on consumption. The water is pumped noisily from the truck into your ground tank. The cost of this water (that invariably has been taken from someone else’s borehole) is around three thousand shillings per tanker or ‘bowser’. You can’t miss these blue trucks on the road, belching out smoke from their exhausts, labouring up hills and splashing water onto the tarmac at the same time.
When we need to buy a bowser of water, I usually give the delivery men a cup of tea. It’s worth keeping them on side – a day or two with no water can seem like a lifetime.
City Council Supply
3. If you are connected to a fruitful supply of City Council water (as we are) then you are onto a winner, however, the supply is patchy at best. City Council water is treated and pretty clean but they generally pump to your house only once or twice a week, sometimes only a trickle comes through, sometimes nothing, and very occasionally, more than we can possibly store.
So back to the weekend dilemma.
‘Swimming pool water would be fine for bathing in, flushing loos, washing clothes.’ I said to my husband on a rainy Sunday afternoon. He agreed.
Quickly enough (and after three attempts) he devised a method of siphoning water from the pool into our ground tank through the swimming pool vacuum pipe. Pool water gushed into the ground tank satisfyingly. In fact it was steaming, since (thanks to solar heating) the pool water is warm.
It was only on Monday that I realised the error of my ingenious plan. We use a salt water system to chlorinate our pool. In spite of boiling and filtering, my tea was rather salty, so was the gardener’s.
‘If we have to use bottled water to drink, cook and wash food in,' I said to my husband, feeling slightly ruffled, 'then saving the three thousand bob on a water bowser delivery is going to be a bit of a false economy!’
‘Well how much is a 20 litre bottle of drinking water anyway?’ My husband asked.
‘Five hundred shillings....a bit less.’ I groaned.
‘Hmm.’ The maths spoke for itself.
The next day saw us siphoning the now cold water back from the ground tank and into the pool. Thanks to forces of gravity, this was a more complex system, with a necessity to make use of hose pipes and the antiquated electric pump that normally delivers water to our roof.
Today the bowser men came. Fresh water, hooray! I made them a cup of tea....from mineral water. Am not sure how long it’s going to take to get the salt water out of our system.
There are various methods of getting your hands on water in Nairobi but none of them are particularly cheap or easy. For Nairobi householders, the fact that water is a precious resource is brought into sharp focus on an almost daily basis.
Boreholes
1. Some apartment blocks or town house complexes draw water from boreholes that the owner/developer has had dug themselves. Digging a borehole costs a lot (a few million shillings) and nowadays you have to go very deep to ensure that the water table does not fall below the depth of your borehole in the long dry season. Our neighbour sunk a borehole just before building six houses in his garden. The noise of the machinery digging through layers of earth and rock was deafening. As a result of so many boreholes being dug, the water table in our area is slowly dropping.
There are also rumours that borehole water is very high in fluoride which can play havoc with young teeth.
Bowsers
2. Other householders with no direct access to running water might buy a 10 thousand litre truck load of water on a more or less on a bi-weekly basis, depending on consumption. The water is pumped noisily from the truck into your ground tank. The cost of this water (that invariably has been taken from someone else’s borehole) is around three thousand shillings per tanker or ‘bowser’. You can’t miss these blue trucks on the road, belching out smoke from their exhausts, labouring up hills and splashing water onto the tarmac at the same time.
When we need to buy a bowser of water, I usually give the delivery men a cup of tea. It’s worth keeping them on side – a day or two with no water can seem like a lifetime.
City Council Supply
3. If you are connected to a fruitful supply of City Council water (as we are) then you are onto a winner, however, the supply is patchy at best. City Council water is treated and pretty clean but they generally pump to your house only once or twice a week, sometimes only a trickle comes through, sometimes nothing, and very occasionally, more than we can possibly store.
So back to the weekend dilemma.
‘Swimming pool water would be fine for bathing in, flushing loos, washing clothes.’ I said to my husband on a rainy Sunday afternoon. He agreed.
Quickly enough (and after three attempts) he devised a method of siphoning water from the pool into our ground tank through the swimming pool vacuum pipe. Pool water gushed into the ground tank satisfyingly. In fact it was steaming, since (thanks to solar heating) the pool water is warm.
It was only on Monday that I realised the error of my ingenious plan. We use a salt water system to chlorinate our pool. In spite of boiling and filtering, my tea was rather salty, so was the gardener’s.
‘If we have to use bottled water to drink, cook and wash food in,' I said to my husband, feeling slightly ruffled, 'then saving the three thousand bob on a water bowser delivery is going to be a bit of a false economy!’
‘Well how much is a 20 litre bottle of drinking water anyway?’ My husband asked.
‘Five hundred shillings....a bit less.’ I groaned.
‘Hmm.’ The maths spoke for itself.
The next day saw us siphoning the now cold water back from the ground tank and into the pool. Thanks to forces of gravity, this was a more complex system, with a necessity to make use of hose pipes and the antiquated electric pump that normally delivers water to our roof.
Today the bowser men came. Fresh water, hooray! I made them a cup of tea....from mineral water. Am not sure how long it’s going to take to get the salt water out of our system.
Friday, March 18, 2011
Nairobi Trivia
Rain
Just spent the week having hot flashes in shopping centres, wondering if menopause could really hit in ones (late) thirties, when the weather broke. After months of hot, muggy, sweaty weather, it’s finally raining here in Nairobi. Over the last couple of days we’ve had dark threatening clouds hanging over us accompanied by rolls of thunder followed by sheet rain (it's still quite warm though).
My roadside friends tell me it’s time to hurry off to the shamba and start planting. The bad news is that forecasters predict that in some areas of the country (Eastern provice among others), the rains will fall short. Let’s hope that they have got that wrong.
The other night, at midnight our middle daughter disturbed us because it was raining in her room... again.
‘There’s water coming into my room. It’s so noisy, I can’t sleep.’
Groan. My husband turned over.
I reluctantly woke up then went to inspect. I was expecting a trickle but sure enough found water pouring down her wall, onto her CD player and her DSlite and around her electrical wall socket.
It seemed that the fundis who somewhat hopefully threw a heap of wet cement on top of our 1930s roof tiles a month ago expecting it to fix the flashing problem, got it wrong. Cue more strategic placing of buckets and towels.
Minutiae
I spent more than half an hour in the hardware shop this morning with the ever so nice carpenter James (pronounced Jims), figuring out how to get the termites, or white ants, out of our garden furniture. The people watching in there is great, which is just as well since you are generally left to stand around for so long waiting for service. I even met the charming plumber, Mr Weti in there. He’s such a sweetie.
I went to the gym the other day because I’m still trying to work of those extra Christmas kilos that stubbornly won’t budge - and to my horror, perhaps in an enthusiastic dance moment, I dislodged one of the large inflatable exercise balls from the corner of the room and set it spinning across the assembled crowd of not gym bunnies, but what would more realistically be described as ‘gym mamas’, of which I am one. Face in hands, I watched as it rolled between ‘grapevine-ing’ feet. Fortunately no serious injuries occurred.
Yesterday I was glad that the power was off since it meant that the kids couldn’t see the aphids and wriggly things that I’d tried to rinse out of their cooked broccoli in the washing up bowl. Bless them, they never suspected a thing.
Self indulgent purchases
My friend is wondering why, since I’ve taken up anti-aging facials each month, my spots have got so much worse. Well, I suppose that’s one way of turning back the clock.
To cheer myself up about said facial ‘break out’, I bought a tight, navy tie-die dress from Mr Price. ‘For the coast?’ the same friend said. ‘Er, no.’ I said, then stalked off to buy myself some eye wateringly expensive jeans. The jeans were justified as my second hand market ‘Seven for all Mankind’ jeans have finally ‘given’ across the bottom (see above - extra kilos adding undue stress to the area).
If I go for these dark blue ones, I reasoned, then it’s worth it because I’d never find dark blue in mitumba (second hand market) – everything there is faded. In fact I was lying to myself. You can get any number of shades of blue jean in mitumba, every style, every cut.
When I got home I hid the new jeans in a cupboard for four days and destroyed any physical evidence of their price. Now that it’s raining, I can wear them (it was too hot before) and I’m so pleased that you’ll have to surgically remove them from my bottom for me to ever take them off.
Current Affairs
In between all this, I’ve been watching the news. This time last week the images of the Japan earthquake and tsunami were morbidly fascinating in an absolutely horrific way. A week later and with the nuclear reactor situation, it only gets worse.
Libya is another rapidly degenerating scenario. I read today that British armed forces are most likely going in. I sent a spurt of coffee out of my friends’ nose yesterday at lunchtime when I said that I thought pictures of Muammar Gaddafi in the 1970s showed him as something of a dish?
Hey ho. Another week in Nairobi.
Just spent the week having hot flashes in shopping centres, wondering if menopause could really hit in ones (late) thirties, when the weather broke. After months of hot, muggy, sweaty weather, it’s finally raining here in Nairobi. Over the last couple of days we’ve had dark threatening clouds hanging over us accompanied by rolls of thunder followed by sheet rain (it's still quite warm though).
My roadside friends tell me it’s time to hurry off to the shamba and start planting. The bad news is that forecasters predict that in some areas of the country (Eastern provice among others), the rains will fall short. Let’s hope that they have got that wrong.
The other night, at midnight our middle daughter disturbed us because it was raining in her room... again.
‘There’s water coming into my room. It’s so noisy, I can’t sleep.’
Groan. My husband turned over.
I reluctantly woke up then went to inspect. I was expecting a trickle but sure enough found water pouring down her wall, onto her CD player and her DSlite and around her electrical wall socket.
It seemed that the fundis who somewhat hopefully threw a heap of wet cement on top of our 1930s roof tiles a month ago expecting it to fix the flashing problem, got it wrong. Cue more strategic placing of buckets and towels.
Minutiae
I spent more than half an hour in the hardware shop this morning with the ever so nice carpenter James (pronounced Jims), figuring out how to get the termites, or white ants, out of our garden furniture. The people watching in there is great, which is just as well since you are generally left to stand around for so long waiting for service. I even met the charming plumber, Mr Weti in there. He’s such a sweetie.
I went to the gym the other day because I’m still trying to work of those extra Christmas kilos that stubbornly won’t budge - and to my horror, perhaps in an enthusiastic dance moment, I dislodged one of the large inflatable exercise balls from the corner of the room and set it spinning across the assembled crowd of not gym bunnies, but what would more realistically be described as ‘gym mamas’, of which I am one. Face in hands, I watched as it rolled between ‘grapevine-ing’ feet. Fortunately no serious injuries occurred.
Yesterday I was glad that the power was off since it meant that the kids couldn’t see the aphids and wriggly things that I’d tried to rinse out of their cooked broccoli in the washing up bowl. Bless them, they never suspected a thing.
Self indulgent purchases
My friend is wondering why, since I’ve taken up anti-aging facials each month, my spots have got so much worse. Well, I suppose that’s one way of turning back the clock.
To cheer myself up about said facial ‘break out’, I bought a tight, navy tie-die dress from Mr Price. ‘For the coast?’ the same friend said. ‘Er, no.’ I said, then stalked off to buy myself some eye wateringly expensive jeans. The jeans were justified as my second hand market ‘Seven for all Mankind’ jeans have finally ‘given’ across the bottom (see above - extra kilos adding undue stress to the area).
If I go for these dark blue ones, I reasoned, then it’s worth it because I’d never find dark blue in mitumba (second hand market) – everything there is faded. In fact I was lying to myself. You can get any number of shades of blue jean in mitumba, every style, every cut.
When I got home I hid the new jeans in a cupboard for four days and destroyed any physical evidence of their price. Now that it’s raining, I can wear them (it was too hot before) and I’m so pleased that you’ll have to surgically remove them from my bottom for me to ever take them off.
Current Affairs
In between all this, I’ve been watching the news. This time last week the images of the Japan earthquake and tsunami were morbidly fascinating in an absolutely horrific way. A week later and with the nuclear reactor situation, it only gets worse.
Libya is another rapidly degenerating scenario. I read today that British armed forces are most likely going in. I sent a spurt of coffee out of my friends’ nose yesterday at lunchtime when I said that I thought pictures of Muammar Gaddafi in the 1970s showed him as something of a dish?
Hey ho. Another week in Nairobi.
Thursday, March 10, 2011
Comic Relief 2011 - Let's get some perspective on Kenya
 |
| comic relief |
I'm dying to watch the BBC Comic Relief documentary about 4 celebrities eking out a living for a week in Kibera slum. Unfortunately you can't download BBC iplayer unless you are in the UK. I remember feeling similar frustration last year when we missed a lot of the Comic Relief Kenya footage.
(sorry for fuzzy pictures)
Apparently 2011 Famous Rich and in the slums Part 1, goes something like this:
Lenny Henry, Samantha Womack, Reggie Yates and Angela Rippon experience unimaginable poverty as they spend a week living it for real in this ground-breaking, two-part documentary for Comic Relief.
All four agree to swap their lives of privilege and luxury for life in Kibera, reportedly Africa's largest slum. In this first programme, they are stripped of all their possessions and given under two pounds to buy the basics, before moving into cockroach-ridden individual shacks where they will live on their own for the first three days and nights.
While Lenny, Samantha and Angela haggle to buy basics such as toothpaste, Reggie decides to spend his limited budget on trying to escape his new reality for a while by watching a football match, crammed into a tiny shack in with other fans. But the victory of the game is short-lived as Reggie needs to get to work. He bags himself one of the highest paid jobs in the slums: emptying raw sewage from the public pit latrines through the night.
Lenny pays his way by making and selling samosas on the streets of the slum but agonises over whether to take his daily wage, which his boss could spend on vital medicine for his sick child. Samantha gets a cleaning job in a clinic where she witnesses shocking and emotional scenes, while Angela joins a queue of women from the slum offering to wash clothes in the affluent areas of Nairobi. She works so hard her hands are red raw, all for a pittance. Soon, she discovers the shocking reality of the choice her colleagues must make if they don't get picked for a job.
It sounds fascinating/shocking viewing and I am sure that it will inspire many a television watching Brit at home to reach into their pocket for Comic Relief. I gather there's another film with celebs trekking across Kenya's Northern Frontier district to raise awareness for an eye charity. Great.
However, I do have a problem with this so wanted to put massive fund raising drives like this into the perspective of somebody who is 'on the ground' living in Kenya.
Kibera slum, poverty, the shocking state of the health system - these are fundamentally Kenya Government problems that are systematically failed to be addressed. Fact: The endless in flow of aid money is providing politicians and leaders with a means to continue lining their own pockets and an excuse to dodge ecomonic key issues. In 50 years since Independance, in spite of generous amounts of aid money, the average Kenyan has grown poorer.
Why, after decades of funding, are there still no toilets in Kibera? Hundreds were promised in the 2007 election to be sponsored by Community Development Funds (CDF) - I think about six or ten public toilets were built. I've seen them. Kibera residents are sick of empty promises. (see previous posts on Kibera).
In fact, now we come to mention it, why - after all the money that has been donated, the vaster part by foreign governments, does Kibera still exist at all? And lets not forget the other major slums in Nairobi, Mathare, Karangware, Dandora, Korogocho, Soweto - the list goes on.
If you think me mean spirited - then look at the injustice of the fact that Kenyan politicians are among the richest people in the world!! The more aid money that flows in, the more scams and siphoning that goes on. The local papers filled with stories of corruption every day.
Wikileaks quoted the US ambassador to Kenya Ranneburger as having said;
'Kenya is a flourishing swamp of corruption.'
He was bang on, but after the embarrassment of this and other unfavourable comments that he fed back to the USA being leaked, he was sent home.
http://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/africa/kenya-fumes-over-cable-branding-it-a-swamp-of-corruption-2148013.html
Forgive me for spouting off using mass generalisations but:.....
The corruption is so endemic in Kenya that it filters down to all corners of daily life, you almost become anaesthetised to the problem as you live with it. Politicians literally think they are immune to prosecution when public funding goes into their pockets - mainly because they have acted poorly with utter impunity for the past half century. Since leaders in Kenya have forever led by an example using principals of 'survival of the fittest' and 'help yourself before helping others' even when you are already fat and rich - then what hope is there for everyone else? It's not that ordinary people aren't nice - they couldn't be nicer, friendlier, sunnier in the face of adversity but when it comes down to it petty theft/corruption - it's almost understandable in the quest just to survive.
What really sucks is that even the aid givers/foreign consultants are nowadays complicit (you can see it in all the big organisations DFID, UN, USAID etc). - Suddenly big cars are needed for projects, generous house allowances required, school fees paid, flights home for consultants - then budgets, for want of knowing how best to disburse them, are given out by these consultants to highly convincing local government ministers. The money never actually reaches the poorest who need it most. Projects stall or fail, targets are not reached. Years later, nobody is interested in following up on where the money has gone, was it spent effectively? The poor end up having to continue as usual, fending for themselves, hustling, finding opportunities - and since this is what they are forced by circumstance to do, so then, the circle continues.
My advice would be to donate to Comic Relief charities in the UK. At least Comic Relief representatives will be bothered to be on hand to oversee projects and make sure your money really makes a difference. You, as the giver, can even track their progress.
Maybe there are exceptions but I'm sorry to say this - (it's so damn depressing) - but more often than not, when money comes to Kenya, it tends to disappear into a black hole, never to be seen again.
Whatever Bono says; Trade, not Aid to Africa - is advisable as a way of taking things forward.
I would still love to see the Comic Relief film. It sounds like the chosen celebs really had their work cut out, I would never have been able to meet the challenges they were set. However, throwing money at Kibera via Comic Relief or wherever, with the best will in the world, is not going to make the place go away.
Wednesday, March 09, 2011
Theft, green cards and politics
Petty Theft
We had a slightly fraught evening yesterday when it was brought to our attention that somebody has been stealing. The lady who works in our house lost her salary from her locked room in the staff quarters. (She doesn't sleep there but has a private room for her rest times etc).
My first reaction was to ask, 'why was the money there?'
'I take what I need home, then keep the balance in my room here for safekeeping.'
The perpetrator had apparently been able to enter the padlocked room and then leave, locking the door behind him without anyone noticing. To be honest, though the door was locked, it would not have taken a rocket scientist to undo the screws around the bolt, then screw them back in again.
Blame was placed squarely at our night watchman's door. The gardener complained that many of his belongings that he'd left safe in his room when he left work in the evening, had also gone missing, bits of food, a new hat, 100 shillings bus fare. And I learned yesterday that this has been going on for about a year.
It was sad on a few counts. Sad that the lady that works in our house does not have a bank account - I feel slightly responsible about that - and that she feels that the safest place in the world for her to leave her cash is here, except it's not safe. More importantly, we like the night watchman. I don't like to think of him skulking about in other people's rooms at night like a fox. Having said that, it might be relevant that he hasn't asked us for a loan for school fees for quite some time.
'He'll have to be redeployed' I said to my husband.
Fortunately the night watchman is employed by an outside firm.
'What about the police?' he asked. 'What about trying to get the money back off him?'
'We don't have evidence. Don't say anything to the security firm, we don't want to get him in trouble.'
My prediction is that police involvement would result in overly harsh treatment of a hungry man who is pushing his luck.
'Please, please, please can we stop having night watchmen now?' I asked. 'It's too heartbreaking.'
'No.' was the response.
The replacement guy turned up.
'What tribe are you?' Our older housekeeper lady asked immediately.
I gently told her off but she shrugged.
'We always ask each other's tribe.' she said. 'It's fine.'
It seems things will never change.
Green Cards
Our very much ex-ex-ex nightwatchman who lives in Kibera, sent me a surprise sms a week or two ago.
'Good evening.i applied for US green card 2008.I've been lucky to win a permanent resident card in US!'
I must admit, I felt excited for him too - though unsure. I know about the green card lottery but am not sure how it works. A green card is one thing but presumably cash is needed to get over to the USA - and setting up a new life would be costly, plus, what about dependants?
Business managers we know complain that they often lose good, trained and qualified people to the green card lottery. It wasn't the first time I'd heard about a case like this.
The next text said;
'we r excited!yes I wish 2 go family, but then i want to find out requirements. i don't know where to start! send me your email address, I send, u read and advice us.'
But the next evening came the final message,
'i was at US embassy, gigiri. i went to verify docs i was sent. its FRAUD! US embassy has discovered & have list of Nigerians and r being tracked. it was a FAKE letter.'
Poor thing, I think he was gutted.
Politics
When a Nation Media news SMS came in via text message last night, stating that the ICC would definitely summon the 6 public figures perceived to be most guilty of masterminding post election violence to their courts - I was delighted. The announcement came earlier than expected and reading between the lines of the newspaper, caught everyone off guard. Kalonzo Musyoka has been busy with his shuttle diplomacy mission for months now, trying to wriggle out of Kenya being under the Hague's jurisdiction. Has he been pipped to the post? Last night I immediately had mental images of frantic phone calls exchanged between various politicians wringing their hands. Drama.
The 6 (see previous post) are due to appear at the ICC courts on the 7th April. Things are moving fast. If they fail to pitch, a warrant will be out for their arrest (not that that has made much impact on other wanted political personalities, I'm thinking Bashir?). Kenyan Civil society today called for the resignation of named MPs, there's rumour circulating that petitions by Kenyans supporting the ICC process now, collectively have over 800,000 signatures. But the corruption problem is so endemic that politicians still seem convinced that they are immune from justice forever. Or are they?
Combined with Wikileaks revelations hitting the paper most days, it makes for exciting times. In my opinion the ICC summonses are great news.
We had a slightly fraught evening yesterday when it was brought to our attention that somebody has been stealing. The lady who works in our house lost her salary from her locked room in the staff quarters. (She doesn't sleep there but has a private room for her rest times etc).
My first reaction was to ask, 'why was the money there?'
'I take what I need home, then keep the balance in my room here for safekeeping.'
The perpetrator had apparently been able to enter the padlocked room and then leave, locking the door behind him without anyone noticing. To be honest, though the door was locked, it would not have taken a rocket scientist to undo the screws around the bolt, then screw them back in again.
Blame was placed squarely at our night watchman's door. The gardener complained that many of his belongings that he'd left safe in his room when he left work in the evening, had also gone missing, bits of food, a new hat, 100 shillings bus fare. And I learned yesterday that this has been going on for about a year.
It was sad on a few counts. Sad that the lady that works in our house does not have a bank account - I feel slightly responsible about that - and that she feels that the safest place in the world for her to leave her cash is here, except it's not safe. More importantly, we like the night watchman. I don't like to think of him skulking about in other people's rooms at night like a fox. Having said that, it might be relevant that he hasn't asked us for a loan for school fees for quite some time.
'He'll have to be redeployed' I said to my husband.
Fortunately the night watchman is employed by an outside firm.
'What about the police?' he asked. 'What about trying to get the money back off him?'
'We don't have evidence. Don't say anything to the security firm, we don't want to get him in trouble.'
My prediction is that police involvement would result in overly harsh treatment of a hungry man who is pushing his luck.
'Please, please, please can we stop having night watchmen now?' I asked. 'It's too heartbreaking.'
'No.' was the response.
The replacement guy turned up.
'What tribe are you?' Our older housekeeper lady asked immediately.
I gently told her off but she shrugged.
'We always ask each other's tribe.' she said. 'It's fine.'
It seems things will never change.
Green Cards
Our very much ex-ex-ex nightwatchman who lives in Kibera, sent me a surprise sms a week or two ago.
'Good evening.i applied for US green card 2008.I've been lucky to win a permanent resident card in US!'
I must admit, I felt excited for him too - though unsure. I know about the green card lottery but am not sure how it works. A green card is one thing but presumably cash is needed to get over to the USA - and setting up a new life would be costly, plus, what about dependants?
Business managers we know complain that they often lose good, trained and qualified people to the green card lottery. It wasn't the first time I'd heard about a case like this.
The next text said;
'we r excited!yes I wish 2 go family, but then i want to find out requirements. i don't know where to start! send me your email address, I send, u read and advice us.'
But the next evening came the final message,
'i was at US embassy, gigiri. i went to verify docs i was sent. its FRAUD! US embassy has discovered & have list of Nigerians and r being tracked. it was a FAKE letter.'
Poor thing, I think he was gutted.
Politics
When a Nation Media news SMS came in via text message last night, stating that the ICC would definitely summon the 6 public figures perceived to be most guilty of masterminding post election violence to their courts - I was delighted. The announcement came earlier than expected and reading between the lines of the newspaper, caught everyone off guard. Kalonzo Musyoka has been busy with his shuttle diplomacy mission for months now, trying to wriggle out of Kenya being under the Hague's jurisdiction. Has he been pipped to the post? Last night I immediately had mental images of frantic phone calls exchanged between various politicians wringing their hands. Drama.
The 6 (see previous post) are due to appear at the ICC courts on the 7th April. Things are moving fast. If they fail to pitch, a warrant will be out for their arrest (not that that has made much impact on other wanted political personalities, I'm thinking Bashir?). Kenyan Civil society today called for the resignation of named MPs, there's rumour circulating that petitions by Kenyans supporting the ICC process now, collectively have over 800,000 signatures. But the corruption problem is so endemic that politicians still seem convinced that they are immune from justice forever. Or are they?
Combined with Wikileaks revelations hitting the paper most days, it makes for exciting times. In my opinion the ICC summonses are great news.
Tuesday, March 08, 2011
Nairobi National Museum - falling down?
I've been a huge fan of the National Museum in Nairobi since it reopened after extensive renovation (see previous post). However, we visited on Sunday in an attempt to breathe some life into an 'early man' history project that our ten year old is supposed to write - and I was more than a little disappointed. The EU obviously spent a fortune getting the Museum remodelled and reorganised with fabulous results but, two years since its glittering opening, it seems that money for running costs is not there.
Once inside, the once impressive exhibits looked noticeably dusty and slightly unloved. Lights in display cases were not switched on (or not working). There was no water in the bathrooms/loos (broken seats/filthy), and, more worryingly, no water in the Savanna restaurant which, surprisingly has also not been properly maintained. There was a broken loo handle in the single loo, that someone had attempted to mend with a piece wood and wire - but, with no water, the improvised fix did not work. We decided not to eat there since my husband has just cured himself from a bout of helicobactor pylori and we felt the chef might be compromised if he's not even able to wash his hands.
(maybe the lack of water was due to the road renovations outside, but still, presumably water could have been trucked in? Surely provision could be made?)
For my daughter's project, there was not a single information leaflet to pick up (reception told me very nicely, 'they got finished'), not even a picture postcard to buy. When I asked in the museum shop if I could purchase any book or pamphlet about the museum I was told that there was none available, just a row of dusty novels written about Africa in various incarnations.
It's a tragedy since, thanks to the EU funding and renovation done, this could be a National museum to hold its head up alongside those found in London, New York, Paris - but once within the walls it's all too obvious that the infrastructure just isn't there.
The model is a familiar one. Throw cash at a charitable project without a proper plan for maintenance, upkeep, running costs - or view to running the place as a successful/profitable business.
It reminds me of visiting a school for deaf children in Dar es Salaam on behalf of a friend who wanted us to take photographs for his fund raise. When we arrived there was a shiny red pick up truck in the drive.
'Wow, that's refreshing! At least they don't seem to be in too much need of cash.' I said to my husband.
How wrong I was. After a two hour tour of the premises where we were shown broken audio equipment, electrics that needed fixing, smashed windows and water tanks that leaked, we got to the subject of transport.
We were told that a major problem was that many of the children and staff found the public bus service (dhalla-dhallas) to get to school too expensive. At this point I plucked up courage to ask about the car parked outside.
'Yes, it was a donation from Britain,' said the headmaster, 'it could help us....but we have no money for fuel.'
'So you never use it?' my husband asked.
'We keep it for emergencies. The fuel is too expensive.'
The National Museum is still well worth a visit but, unless a proper plan is made for maintenance and upkeep, then it will fall (predictably?) into wrack and ruin all too quickly - which, goes without saying, would be a crying shame. I had such high hopes.
 |
| Museum Hill roadworks |
It doesn't help that there are huge roadworks going on outside, making the entire area of the city resemble a vast red lunar landscape. Sadly, as a result of road renovations, the eyecatching mosaic archway entrance to the museum was unceremoniously pulled down by the city council only after a year or two of standing. Apparently there are plans to build a new one in the future.
Once inside, the once impressive exhibits looked noticeably dusty and slightly unloved. Lights in display cases were not switched on (or not working). There was no water in the bathrooms/loos (broken seats/filthy), and, more worryingly, no water in the Savanna restaurant which, surprisingly has also not been properly maintained. There was a broken loo handle in the single loo, that someone had attempted to mend with a piece wood and wire - but, with no water, the improvised fix did not work. We decided not to eat there since my husband has just cured himself from a bout of helicobactor pylori and we felt the chef might be compromised if he's not even able to wash his hands.
(maybe the lack of water was due to the road renovations outside, but still, presumably water could have been trucked in? Surely provision could be made?)
For my daughter's project, there was not a single information leaflet to pick up (reception told me very nicely, 'they got finished'), not even a picture postcard to buy. When I asked in the museum shop if I could purchase any book or pamphlet about the museum I was told that there was none available, just a row of dusty novels written about Africa in various incarnations.
It's a tragedy since, thanks to the EU funding and renovation done, this could be a National museum to hold its head up alongside those found in London, New York, Paris - but once within the walls it's all too obvious that the infrastructure just isn't there.
The model is a familiar one. Throw cash at a charitable project without a proper plan for maintenance, upkeep, running costs - or view to running the place as a successful/profitable business.
It reminds me of visiting a school for deaf children in Dar es Salaam on behalf of a friend who wanted us to take photographs for his fund raise. When we arrived there was a shiny red pick up truck in the drive.
'Wow, that's refreshing! At least they don't seem to be in too much need of cash.' I said to my husband.
How wrong I was. After a two hour tour of the premises where we were shown broken audio equipment, electrics that needed fixing, smashed windows and water tanks that leaked, we got to the subject of transport.
We were told that a major problem was that many of the children and staff found the public bus service (dhalla-dhallas) to get to school too expensive. At this point I plucked up courage to ask about the car parked outside.
'Yes, it was a donation from Britain,' said the headmaster, 'it could help us....but we have no money for fuel.'
'So you never use it?' my husband asked.
'We keep it for emergencies. The fuel is too expensive.'
The National Museum is still well worth a visit but, unless a proper plan is made for maintenance and upkeep, then it will fall (predictably?) into wrack and ruin all too quickly - which, goes without saying, would be a crying shame. I had such high hopes.
Wednesday, March 02, 2011
Moving to Kenya or just visiting? 2011 update
I wrote a post ages ago (April 2008) on what life is like in Nairobi for anyone who might be thinking of moving here from overseas. Since this remains one of my most popular posts, I decided it might be time to update it for 2011. Most of the info in the original post is still relevant so worth casting your eye over too.
Being an Expat
Before I begin and at risk of stating the obvious, as an expat, you really have to embrace the ‘cup half full’ mentality and try not to be a negative soul. What I love about living here in East Africa is that every day is an adventure and, away from the more formal nature of life back home, it’s a liberating experience and can inspire you to try anything – set up an art gallery, become an expert on conservation, write a blog!
Friendly
It’s true. Kenya is really such a bubbly, friendly place effervescing with an entrepreneurial spirit which, first and foremost, can be seen in the huge informal employment sector of hawkers and craftspeople all plying their trade at street level; hustling like crazy. If you approach an exchange with a smile, you will invariably get one back and don’t be flustered by curious stares that mean no ill. Accept that you are a stranger and don’t feel threatened. Kids are always an instant ice breaker.
Frustrating
Learning some Swahili and making an effort to understand the culture can go a long way to easing daily frustrations but is by no means a cure-all. The pump attendant might mistakenly put diesel in your petrol car, the supermarket will double charge you for something, the meat the butcher sold you is off. You’ll inevitably have days where you are asked for money by employees to help solve personal problems when you yourself are feeling a tad impoverished (having paid high rent and school fees). The ATM is down and then you’ll get stuck in interminable traffic, held up by senseless road works, a herd of cows or a hand cart.
You might have to wait hours for food at a restaurant, only to fail to get what you asked for. The power might be off for a couple of days, your water tank empty. Quality workmanship sometimes seems an impossible dream.
A word of warning, the crosser you get, the more bloody minded the person that you are 'crossing' becomes – it’s really worth trying to keep that smile pasted on and keep your temper in check. I often find this hard as small irritations added together can occasionally cause you to lose perspective.
Disparity of wealth.
I’ve written at length about this in the past. I find that it’s one of the hard, hard, hardest things about living here in East Africa. After 12 years I am still constantly juggling feelings of guilt and pangs of frustration. Empathy and, if you can, creating employment on any level, helps. (search previous posts on our ex-askari/nightwatchman - resident of Kibera slum)
Security
Security is an issue. Most compounds/houses employ private firms to provide askaris (night watchmen) as a matter of course. However, it’s worth remembering that security reports (that are circulated regularly online or via email) are almost always compiled by private security companies who stand to profit from your fear. There are 3 million people in Nairobi, all equally exposed to scams and petty crime. The expats are almost most heavily protected bunch of the lot and hardest targets for thieves. You are far more likely to be a victim of crime if you live in one of Nairobi’s infamous slums.
Cost of living
The cost of living is high in this region.
The private night security (mentioned above) comes with a heavy price, which in turn pushes up rent. Electricity is fearfully expensive but on the upside, you won’t have to heat your house/apartment! Food costs quite a lot, especially when you are buying imported goods, cleaning products etc. – however fruit and veg are legendary in Nairobi (a major international exporter) and the meat you can buy is delicious and a lot cheaper too. Booze is cheaper, but don’t forget that you’ll probably be buying drinking water, though many people boil and/or filter the tap water as a substitute. City Council water is treated and is not bad but you can never guarantee the cleanliness of storage tanks and many residential complexes draw water from boreholes these days (can be high on fluoride). It’s worth checking where the water in your tap is coming from.
Eating out is cheaper than back home for us Brits but not that much cheaper. I find that our guests often expect living to cost much less here, I guess because it’s Africa – they are always shocked by the prices of lots of things, even local crafts. Clothes are expensive due to heavy import taxes. Even the famous second hand markets (mitumba) are asking higher than Primark prices for almost everything.
Medical
Medical bills can add up, but once you tap into the rather informal system here visiting highly qualified consultants based in various hospitals around the city and savvy doctor’s surgeries you will realise that the healthcare in Nairobi is almost second to none. Referrals are quick; Waiting lists nonexistent. Pharmacies offer good advice over the counter (obviously they are experts in tropical illnesses) and will often allow you to buy drugs, even antibiotics, without prescription. You can even join the inexpensive Flying Doctor’s service if you are worried about emergency back up when outside the city.
Once-in-a-lifetime holiday destinations on your doorstep
Kate Middleton and Prince William got engaged here - say no more!
An incredible coastline, Rift Valley, game parks all boasting the big 5 and all within an easy drive of Nairobi. Most of the National Parks and lodges come with a high price tag, though rates are reduced for residents. If you are an intrepid type and want to see lots, buy a tent (take a medical box of emergency supplies), check out places like the Kenya Wildlife Services (KWS) self catering houses/bandas and go for it!
Housing
As Kenya is in a period of rapid urbanisation, Nairobi has been experiencing a property development boom for years now. The majority of residential areas are now dotted with either apartment complexes or gated town house developments but if you have the budget it is still possible to find lovely self contained properties with pretty gardens the further out of the city centre you go. As said before, rents and property purchase prices are high. (More on this on the africaexpat forum: http://africaexpatwivesclub.forumotion.com/ )
Weather
The weather really is good! No snow! The temperature in Nairobi rarely drops below 12 degrees. Having said that, the year that we moved here, due to El Nino, it seemed to rain almost every day for 12 months. Everyone embraces rainy conditions here, since, while it’s not perfect holiday weather, it is so much preferable to the sadly commonly occurring alternative - drought.
Shopping
Shopping is either done in modern shopping centres with off street parking, coffee shops, cinemas and big supermarkets; Nakumatt, Uchumi and Tusky’s, or in the more informal side of the road dukas (shops). Most people seem happy to mix the two from day-to-day.
Schools
There are tons of private primary/preparatory schools in Nairobi follow the UK system (Hillcrest, Peponi, Brookhouse, Banda, Kenton, Braeburn – upcountry boarding; St Andrews Turi, Pembroke). International School Kenya has a great reputation too. Secondary level, you have Peponi, Braeburn, Hillcrest and ISK. The intake is mixed Kenyan, Asian, European and the schools are pricey. Cost ranging from 120,000 to 300,000 Kenya Shillings per child, per term.
Working
As a foreigner, don't forget you will need a work permit for residency here. Getting one of these can be costly and time consuming, bureaucracy a nightmare. The applications must show you are completing various criteria such as; being the bearer of a professional qualification, investing not less than a certain amount, creating jobs, providing training. Each work permit needs to be renewed every two years. Spouses and kids are then 'dependants' (applied for separately) on their partner's work permits. It's a bit of a nightmare but not impossible.
Internet Access and communications
Kenya is quite far ahead in terms of mobile phones and a world leader in mobile phone banking. Kenya's fibre optic cable is still in the process of being laid (I believe it is, if not it's complete already) - so broadband access is already possible for some. Alternatively, it's Wireless internet access at home is available via various internet providers. There are also various internet 'hotspots' such as Java coffee house, where you can get free online access and plentiful internet centres. The land line telephone service has been taken over by Orange, who are investing heavily, trying to improve this service (they still have problems with physical copper lines being stolen). Many private homes have given up on landlines, since the mobile network is very good and highly affordable, but most businesses have both working landlines and mobile contact numbers.
Other relevant Websites
Still hungry for information? Check out the following websites:
http://www.kenyabuzz.com/ ; http://www.xpatlink.info/ ; http://www.wordofmouth.co.ke/ ; http://www.home.co.ke/ ; http://www.propertykenya.com/
Also, don’t forget my forum to follow and join online chats! http://africaexpatwivesclub.forumotion.com/
Local newspapers online: http://www.nairobistar.com/ ; http://www.standardmedia.co.ke/news/ ; http://www.nation.co.ke/
Being an Expat
Before I begin and at risk of stating the obvious, as an expat, you really have to embrace the ‘cup half full’ mentality and try not to be a negative soul. What I love about living here in East Africa is that every day is an adventure and, away from the more formal nature of life back home, it’s a liberating experience and can inspire you to try anything – set up an art gallery, become an expert on conservation, write a blog!
Friendly
It’s true. Kenya is really such a bubbly, friendly place effervescing with an entrepreneurial spirit which, first and foremost, can be seen in the huge informal employment sector of hawkers and craftspeople all plying their trade at street level; hustling like crazy. If you approach an exchange with a smile, you will invariably get one back and don’t be flustered by curious stares that mean no ill. Accept that you are a stranger and don’t feel threatened. Kids are always an instant ice breaker.
Frustrating
Learning some Swahili and making an effort to understand the culture can go a long way to easing daily frustrations but is by no means a cure-all. The pump attendant might mistakenly put diesel in your petrol car, the supermarket will double charge you for something, the meat the butcher sold you is off. You’ll inevitably have days where you are asked for money by employees to help solve personal problems when you yourself are feeling a tad impoverished (having paid high rent and school fees). The ATM is down and then you’ll get stuck in interminable traffic, held up by senseless road works, a herd of cows or a hand cart.
You might have to wait hours for food at a restaurant, only to fail to get what you asked for. The power might be off for a couple of days, your water tank empty. Quality workmanship sometimes seems an impossible dream.
A word of warning, the crosser you get, the more bloody minded the person that you are 'crossing' becomes – it’s really worth trying to keep that smile pasted on and keep your temper in check. I often find this hard as small irritations added together can occasionally cause you to lose perspective.
Disparity of wealth.
I’ve written at length about this in the past. I find that it’s one of the hard, hard, hardest things about living here in East Africa. After 12 years I am still constantly juggling feelings of guilt and pangs of frustration. Empathy and, if you can, creating employment on any level, helps. (search previous posts on our ex-askari/nightwatchman - resident of Kibera slum)
Security
Security is an issue. Most compounds/houses employ private firms to provide askaris (night watchmen) as a matter of course. However, it’s worth remembering that security reports (that are circulated regularly online or via email) are almost always compiled by private security companies who stand to profit from your fear. There are 3 million people in Nairobi, all equally exposed to scams and petty crime. The expats are almost most heavily protected bunch of the lot and hardest targets for thieves. You are far more likely to be a victim of crime if you live in one of Nairobi’s infamous slums.
Cost of living
The cost of living is high in this region.
The private night security (mentioned above) comes with a heavy price, which in turn pushes up rent. Electricity is fearfully expensive but on the upside, you won’t have to heat your house/apartment! Food costs quite a lot, especially when you are buying imported goods, cleaning products etc. – however fruit and veg are legendary in Nairobi (a major international exporter) and the meat you can buy is delicious and a lot cheaper too. Booze is cheaper, but don’t forget that you’ll probably be buying drinking water, though many people boil and/or filter the tap water as a substitute. City Council water is treated and is not bad but you can never guarantee the cleanliness of storage tanks and many residential complexes draw water from boreholes these days (can be high on fluoride). It’s worth checking where the water in your tap is coming from.
Eating out is cheaper than back home for us Brits but not that much cheaper. I find that our guests often expect living to cost much less here, I guess because it’s Africa – they are always shocked by the prices of lots of things, even local crafts. Clothes are expensive due to heavy import taxes. Even the famous second hand markets (mitumba) are asking higher than Primark prices for almost everything.
Medical
Medical bills can add up, but once you tap into the rather informal system here visiting highly qualified consultants based in various hospitals around the city and savvy doctor’s surgeries you will realise that the healthcare in Nairobi is almost second to none. Referrals are quick; Waiting lists nonexistent. Pharmacies offer good advice over the counter (obviously they are experts in tropical illnesses) and will often allow you to buy drugs, even antibiotics, without prescription. You can even join the inexpensive Flying Doctor’s service if you are worried about emergency back up when outside the city.
Once-in-a-lifetime holiday destinations on your doorstep
Kate Middleton and Prince William got engaged here - say no more!
An incredible coastline, Rift Valley, game parks all boasting the big 5 and all within an easy drive of Nairobi. Most of the National Parks and lodges come with a high price tag, though rates are reduced for residents. If you are an intrepid type and want to see lots, buy a tent (take a medical box of emergency supplies), check out places like the Kenya Wildlife Services (KWS) self catering houses/bandas and go for it!
Housing
As Kenya is in a period of rapid urbanisation, Nairobi has been experiencing a property development boom for years now. The majority of residential areas are now dotted with either apartment complexes or gated town house developments but if you have the budget it is still possible to find lovely self contained properties with pretty gardens the further out of the city centre you go. As said before, rents and property purchase prices are high. (More on this on the africaexpat forum: http://africaexpatwivesclub.forumotion.com/ )
Weather
The weather really is good! No snow! The temperature in Nairobi rarely drops below 12 degrees. Having said that, the year that we moved here, due to El Nino, it seemed to rain almost every day for 12 months. Everyone embraces rainy conditions here, since, while it’s not perfect holiday weather, it is so much preferable to the sadly commonly occurring alternative - drought.
Shopping
Shopping is either done in modern shopping centres with off street parking, coffee shops, cinemas and big supermarkets; Nakumatt, Uchumi and Tusky’s, or in the more informal side of the road dukas (shops). Most people seem happy to mix the two from day-to-day.
Schools
There are tons of private primary/preparatory schools in Nairobi follow the UK system (Hillcrest, Peponi, Brookhouse, Banda, Kenton, Braeburn – upcountry boarding; St Andrews Turi, Pembroke). International School Kenya has a great reputation too. Secondary level, you have Peponi, Braeburn, Hillcrest and ISK. The intake is mixed Kenyan, Asian, European and the schools are pricey. Cost ranging from 120,000 to 300,000 Kenya Shillings per child, per term.
Working
As a foreigner, don't forget you will need a work permit for residency here. Getting one of these can be costly and time consuming, bureaucracy a nightmare. The applications must show you are completing various criteria such as; being the bearer of a professional qualification, investing not less than a certain amount, creating jobs, providing training. Each work permit needs to be renewed every two years. Spouses and kids are then 'dependants' (applied for separately) on their partner's work permits. It's a bit of a nightmare but not impossible.
Internet Access and communications
Kenya is quite far ahead in terms of mobile phones and a world leader in mobile phone banking. Kenya's fibre optic cable is still in the process of being laid (I believe it is, if not it's complete already) - so broadband access is already possible for some. Alternatively, it's Wireless internet access at home is available via various internet providers. There are also various internet 'hotspots' such as Java coffee house, where you can get free online access and plentiful internet centres. The land line telephone service has been taken over by Orange, who are investing heavily, trying to improve this service (they still have problems with physical copper lines being stolen). Many private homes have given up on landlines, since the mobile network is very good and highly affordable, but most businesses have both working landlines and mobile contact numbers.
Other relevant Websites
Still hungry for information? Check out the following websites:
http://www.kenyabuzz.com/ ; http://www.xpatlink.info/ ; http://www.wordofmouth.co.ke/ ; http://www.home.co.ke/ ; http://www.propertykenya.com/
Also, don’t forget my forum to follow and join online chats! http://africaexpatwivesclub.forumotion.com/
Local newspapers online: http://www.nairobistar.com/ ; http://www.standardmedia.co.ke/news/ ; http://www.nation.co.ke/
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